Jumat, 12 Maret 2010

A Culinary Look at Women in History Part 2

Southern spoon bread, recipe below



I learned about Teenager Tillie Eripp, a migrant from Tampa, Florida, while doing research in the New York City Municipal archives for my book Hog and Hominy http://cup.columbia.edu/book/978-0-231-14638-8/hog-and-hominy/webFeatures. She first migrated to Philadelphia where suffered desperately from loneliness. “Soon, through the help of a friend, she secured a job as a cook in a boarding house, where she remained for several years,” wrote the WPA’s Sarah Chavez. She migrated from Philadelphia to New York in 1928, just before the Great Depression started. Her first job was operating a concession stand selling fried chicken at Harry Hansbury’s speakeasy. Increasing demand for her chicken led her to move to a storefront space next to the speakeasy, where she ran Tillie’s Chicken Shack (see the photo of Archibald John Motley’s painting in yesterdays post). Eripp struggled in getting the business off the ground, depending entirely on inexperienced help. “Once the success of their venture was assured she added to her menu, occasionally serving collard greens, pig tails, black-eyed peas, yams and hogshead,” wrote Chavez. The restaurant served hot biscuits and coffee with every meal, “and each customer was permitted as many biscuits as he or she desired.” Later she added spoon corn bread, a variety of vegetables, and salads to the menu. In 1932, she moved her place of business to 237 Lenox Avenue, just above 121st Street. Here’s a spoon bread recipe http://southernfood.about.com/od/spoonbreadrecipes/r/bl30106v.htm

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